Horizontal Panel Bed Kits Available in Twin, Full and Queen size.
Compare to competition:
Low to no off gassing of Formeldhyde, low carbon footprint,
Solid plywood no particle board,
Size 16" or 20" Deep by 45" Wide by 85" Tall
No cheap Chinese Plywood.
No common carrier pallet shipping, first class Fed-Ex shipping in our own boxes,
Soft close Nitrogen gas Springs
Heavy duty solid steel metal parts (hollow tubes)
No bolting to floor.
High resale value
BEST IN ITS CLASS - 99% American Made
Some Background information: This is absolutely the very best do-it yourself kit on or off the internet at this time. This is a high quality cabinet hand crafted and sanded smooth. It comes with a simple mechanism that has been thoroughly tested and is guaranteed to be strong, sturdy and superior to all the other mechanisms. There are two types of Murphy Bed cabinets on the market today; the bifold door type and the panel type.The bifold door type sells generally for less and has a metal frame exclusive of the cabinet that has to be bolted to the ground. The bifold door over time goes out of alignment and needs to be constantly adjusted, due to the weight the hinges need to carry.The Panel bed is more of a piece of furniture that can be moved around in the house after it is assembled. It is attached at the top with three 3 1/2 inch screws, however it is very important that these screws enter the studs.The front of the panel bed becomes the doors and fold down with the mattress on it. This panel bed has no mechanical springs and no flopping doors,we install two bullet latches in the upper top corners of the panel bed to lock and snap the bed in place when it is closed.
We also install a four inch wood handle to the upper right and left corners of the bed face, this is an inconspicuous place yet very functional. We etch the front face so it appears to be four seperate doors. We also add a 3/4 inch x 3 1/4 inch x 45 inch trim board on the bottom and top of the front of the cabinet, this really makes the cabinet look great. I have been building and installing Murphy Beds for over 10 years and as far as I am concerned this is the best system and style on the market today. We make it out of 3/4 inch Birch or Oak, both look great. All edges get wood edge banding and every part is sanded with 220 grit sandpaper. The counter balance for the bed is two nitrogen gas pistons. These pistons are not subject to metal fatigue or catastrophic failure. I am offering the side beds with soft close gas springs. The pistons are held in place by metal plates and pins, this will allow you to change a piston fairly easy if that should become necessary. I have been told by engineers that these pistons should last 20 years with daily use. All the metal parts are powder coated steel black.. Metal plates are thru bolted to the bed frame and the side panels with furniture grade antique brass finish bolts(flat head). The hinge is a 5/8 inch metal rod on a metal plate that is bolted and screwed to the bed frame and side panel.I have added to these units a 5/8 inch collar that goes between the bed frame and the side panel, this becomes a one time adjustment so the pressure from the piston against the side panel can't draw the side panel into the bed frame. This allows you to maintain a 3/16 inch exposure between the bed doors and the side panel. This overall system has been on the market for at least 15 years in many different forms. My system is an overall improvement of these other systems.
The most distinguishing characteristic of my beds is the flip over leg. It works as a leg when the bed is down and when bed is up it works to hold the bedding and pillows in place.. The leg is in three parts, two legs and one cross bar, they are bolted tightly together so they stay as one unit , The flip over leg is rated to withstand 1000 pounds.
No finish is applied to the wood in the kit form at this time. This you will have have done or do it yourself, it is not that hard if you follow instructions..Most people prefer two-three coats of water based polyurethane. I lay all the parts out on tables and a sealer coat is applied. After about an hour( dries in about 15 Minutes) it is to be sanded with 220 grit sandpaper and then a second coat of water based polyurethane is applied. I use the Pro series for (FLOORS) offered by Home Depot, the only real trick is the parts need to be laying flat or you can get get runs. If you are doing this in a two stall garage there should be no problem with space.It dries fast so dust should not be a big problem. Brush lightly while drying to remove small bubbles.Painting is good also and is easier to do after assembly, birch is the best choice for paint, due to less grain.